Pre-climbing informtions for Nepal

Pre-climbing informtions for Nepal

How to apply for climbing permit:

Supply us following details and we make application on your behalf:

01. Name of the peak and height.

02. Climbing period and your rough itinerary

03. Name nationality and passport number of the leader and all the members

04. Bio-data of each climber

Process to get Climbing permit:  After we have received your application we will enclose other relevant documents and register it at the Mountaineering Division of the Ministry of Tourism. After the registration it takes about minimum 3 days to complete the whole process to get approval letter from the Ministry of Tourism. As soon as the highest authority in the government approves your application you will get a letter from the Mountaineering Section of the Ministry of Tourism asking you to pay climbing permit fees within specified period.

Climbing budget:  We can either give you a bulk figure inclusive of all the services or you can commission us for part of the service. Everything depend upon how past experience in organizing the expedition in Nepal and how you would prefer to do it. But we would suggest you to supply following information to figure out the cost of the expedition:

Approximate weight of expedition equipment and food

Walk in and out of base camp itinerary

What kind of service are required at base camp

Number of High altitude porter and guides required above base camp

Number of high camps above base camp

Number of staffs required during walk in

Number of Staffs required at base camp.

Staffs in climbing expedition:

Liaison Officer: This is a representative of the government who is assigned the job to ensure the team has abided by the government regulation and also to help the expedition whenever required. The expedition team should pay all his expenses. This officer stays at the base camp and files periodic report to the government.

Sardar or headman of the expedition: The title is given to the headman of the expedition. Sardar is the head of the Nepalese staffs. He takes cares of the expedition cargo from the nearest airport to and from the base camp. He ensures that there is no bottleneck in the base camp operation. Generally he has the authority to hire and fire staffs. He takes order from the expedition leader and base camp manager only.

Mountain Guide:  His job is specifically mentioned in the mountaineering regulation. His status above base camp is superior to sardar (headman). Basically he is a professional climber who knows the route to the summit of the peak. He has wide responsibility above base camp. Number of mountain guides depends upon the climbing experience of members.

High Altitude porter: They are also known as high altitude Sherpa or high altitude assistance. The term high altitude porter has become obsolete in the present context. However government regulation still has it so the term is used while corresponding with the government. Present acceptable terminology is “High Altitude Assistant.” Beside portering of high altitude equipment and food they set up camps and assist climbing members during the climb. Beside that in emergency their role becomes more important. They actively participate in the evacuation work. Most sherpas employed in the high altitude work are professional workers. They are key to the success of the expedition. Generally we provide two high altitude assistants to one member when climbing members do not take active participation in setting up camps. Camp I in Everest is a high camp above base camp; so normally we employ one high altitude assistant as cook/kitchen to look after at the camp.

Low Altitude porter:  They are an important link in the expedition. Without them expedition cargo (food and equipment) does not move to the base camp. They help to carry the goods from the nearest road head or airstrip to the base camp. In places like Everest region (known as Khumbu also) often yaks are also used in combination with porters.

Base camp worker: This camp is manned by workers like cook, kitchen boys, mail runner and sardar if he does not go above base camp. Climbing members and high altitude workers often return back to base camp for rest. While at the base camp they are looked after by the base camp staffs. Size of base camp workers depends upon group size of the expedition team. Normally there will be 1 cook, 3 kitchen boys for a group size of 5 to 7 persons. Above 10 person there will be 1 assistant cook and 1 additional kitchen boy to every 6 persons above a group size of 7 persons. This number includes members, high altitude guide and assistants.

Import of food and expedition equipment:  If you plan to bring expedition food and equipment either by air cargo or ship you should send invoice and airway bill or bill of lending (4 copies) to us. Invoice should have CIF Kathmandu value. The list should be divided into Consumable and Non-Consumable items (goods). The Expedition team is entitled to obtain custom facility from the government. Usually custom duty for expedition goods is 12% of the declared value. To save cost we suggest you to get our expert advise before you plan sending your expedition goods to Nepal. It is best to bring as accompanied baggage.

Communication Equipment for expedition use:  According to the Nepalese law communication equipment of all kinds including walkie-talkie should be declared at the custom at the time of entry into Nepal. The declared instrument is kept at the Custom Office at the airport. It can be collected after producing required permit from the Ministry of Communication. To get the permit from the Ministry of Communication you should submit necessary information (catalogue of the instrument) of the equipment to the government and a recommendation letter from the Ministry of Tourism.

Mountaineering Regulation: Nepalese Government Mountaineering Rules and Regulation for full-scale mountaineering require permission from the government Ministry of Tourism. The unit handling the permit is called Mountaineering Section. The expedition peak is controlled and regulated by Tourism Act 2035 and Mountaineering Regulation 2059 (2002) and amendment made thereafter. Following basic provisions are in the regulation:

Expedition cost includes: meals and camping facilities at the base camp and during walk in and out of the base camp, transport, porterage, aircargo, cost of government liaison officer, camp staffs, equipment and insurance for personnel, airfare as per programme.

Cost does not include: High altitude guide and porters, oxygen and oxygen set, rescue cost, climbing gears, climbing and camping equipment above base camp, high altitude food, communication equipment, insurance and expenses of personal nature and tips. Climbing permit fees and surcharge if applicable and expenses that are not specifically mentioned are not included in the price. 

If you want to make total budget write to us.

Payment of expedition permit: After the application is made a preliminary climbing permit would be given to you. For Mount Everest you will have to pay five percent and for rest of the peaks ten percent of the royalty at the time of application. Full payment of the royalty should be paid within one year from the date of getting preliminary permit. If full payment is not made within the time the permit would be automatically cancelled.

Change in climbing peaks: Proposed peak can be changed with prior approval of the government. However the prepaid amount is non refundable even if the permit cost of the new peak is less.

Postponement of the expedition:   The climbing date can be postponed with prior approval of the government Maximum 2 years is allowed for delay.

No Show or refund:  The permit fees that is already paid is non refundable. However it can be transferred to other peak or the schedule date for climbing can be postponed. You can postponed the date up to two years. Application to the Ministry and approval is mandatory in such case.

New Royalty: (Effective from 01 Jan 2015) 

1.      Royalty for Foreign Climber per Person in American Dollar

Table No. 8

S.N

Mountain

Spring Season

Autumn Season

Winter/ Summer

1.

Everest Normal Route

11000

5500

2750

2.

Everest Other Route

10000

5000

2500

3.

Others Mountain more than 8000 m.

1800

900

450

4.

7501m.-7999m.

600

300

150

5.

7000m. – 7500m.

500

250

125

6.

6501m - 6999m.

400

200

100

7.

Mt. Amadablam (6812M)

400

400

200

8.

Less than 6500

250

125

70

 

2.      Royalty for Nepalese Climber per Person in Rupees

Table No. 8

S.N.

Mountain

Spring Season

Autumn Season

Winter/ Summer

1.

Everest Normal Route

75000

37500

18250

2.

Everest Other Route

60000

30000

15000

3.

Others Mountain more than 8000 m.

10000

5000

2500

4.

7501m.-7999m.

8000

4000

2000

5.

7000m. – 7500m.

6000

3000

1500

6.

6501m - 6999m.

5000

2500

1250

7.

Mt. Amadablam (6812M)

8000

8000

4000

8.

Less than 6500

4000

2000

1000


The Mountaineering Royalty has been totally waived to those mountains situated on mid western and Far western development region of  Nepal for 2070/04/01-2075/03/32 (16 July 2013 to 15 July 2018)

Royalty of foreign climbers will effect from 01 Jan, 2015 and Royalty for Nepali climbers will effect 2070.11.1 

Schedule - 9 (Relating to sub rule (1) of Rule 26)

 Amount to be deposited for Garbage Management

 The Mountaineering expedition team shall deposit the following amount as for the garbage management :

 (a) For the following mountains of the Khumbu and Annapurna Himalayan range - 

For the Mount Everest

Four thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees.

For the other mountain having the height of above 8001 meter except Mount Everest

Three thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees

For the mountain having the height of 7001  to 8000 meter and Amadablam mountain

Two thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees

For the mountain having the height of 6501 to 7000 meter

One thousand U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees

For the mountain having the height of less than 6500 meter

Five hundred U.S. Dollar or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees

 

(b) For the following mountains of the other Himalayan range other than expressed in clause (a).

For the other mountain having the height of more than  8000 meter

Three thousand U.S. Dollars or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees

For the mountain having the height of less than  8000 meter

Five hundred U.S. Dollars or equivalent to that in Nepalese rupees.

 

Mountaineering season:

• Spring ( March, April, May)• Summer ( June, July, August)

• Autumn ( September, October, November)• Winter ( December, January, February)

New provision for staff Insurance: As per the decision of secretary level dated 2071/1/16, the insurance amount for sardar, mountain guide and high altitude walker fund is fixed as Rs 15 lakhs. Similarly, medical insurance is fixed as Rs 4 lakhs. Mountain Heli-rescue that covers the evacuation of Nepalese staffs is set 10000USD is also required.

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